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Red soles rising: the unintended consequence of Louboutin case

8/14/2012 COMMENTS (0)

Luxury shoe designer Christian Louboutin is still cooling his red-lacquered heels waiting for the 2nd Circuit Court of Appeals to rule in his trademark battle with Yves Saint Laurent. But fashion stops for no man. Since the expedited appeal over his red soles was argued back in January, closets worth of red-soled Louboutin knockoffs have been unboxed by customs officials in the Port of Los Angeles, his lawyer, Harley Lewin of McCarter & English, said.

The issue at the 2nd Circuit is whether U.S. District Judge Victor Marrero of Manhattan erred in a whimsical opinion in August 2011, in which he not only denied Louboutin's request that YSL be barred from selling red-soled shoes but also said that the Patent and Trademark Office shouldn't have awarded Louboutin a trademark on red soles in the first place. The appeals panel of Senior Judge Chester Straub and judges Jose Cabranes and Debra Livingston heard arguments from Lewin and YSL counsel David Bernstein of Debevoise & Plimpton on Jan. 24. Though the judges didn't lack for questions during the argument, they've been quiet ever since.

The Louboutin company, according to Lewin, had expected a decision by now and has been "treading water" in enforcing its usual trademark protection procedures against fakes and "no-name" shoes with red soles. In the last six weeks, Lewin said, he has seen a huge increase in notifications from U.S. customs agents, alerting him about imported shoes with soles similar to Louboutin's trademarked red bottoms. Some cartons, Lewin said, contained more than 10,000 pairs of shoes, which are likely intended for shopping mall chain stores or other retail outlets.

He attributed the rise, at least partially, to the long wait for a ruling from the 2nd Circuit. "Everyone was thinking a decision (would) come out pretty quickly," he said. "When it (didn't) come out quickly, these copycats ... ordered goods in order to make the fall season." Adding to the problem, Lewin said, is a misperception that Marrero's opinion invalidated Louboutin's trademark. Though Marrero's order denied Louboutin's injunction request and ordered the company to show cause as to why its trademark shouldn't be canceled, the mark wasn't ever actually cancelled, and the parties argued the issue of when colors should be trademarked to the 2nd Circuit.

"We've been on the head of a pin, fearful this was going to take place, and it has," Lewin said, referring to the upswing in allegedly infringing imports. He and Louboutin's trademark team, meanwhile, have delayed filing any new infringement suits and are instead calling alleged wrongdoers and sending cease-and-desist letters.

YSL, on the other hand, doesn't seem to mind the wait for a ruling from the appeals court -- and says Louboutin has only itself to blame for the delay. The fashion house that brought you Le Smoking jacket is continuing to use any color the muses prompt, including red. "It's business as usual," said Debevoise's Bernstein. He also said that if Louboutin hadn't sought an interlocutory appeal of Marrero's injunction ruling, the parties could have been at trial right now. "Louboutin is wasting time having this appeal," he said.

"That the court did not issue a quick decision just confirms what Judge Cabranes said at the end of the oral argument -- that the court was not going to issue an injunction," Bernstein continued. "We expect the case to be returned to Judge Marrero so that we can finally get on with discovery and our motion for summary judgment."

Lewin said he's "guardedly confident of the outcome on appeal" and is hoping that time is on Louboutin's side, at least in the 2nd Circuit's consideration. "My thought was and remains that they're taking time because they're writing a long and well-considered decision," he said.

Like designers throughout Manhattan, perhaps the 2nd Circuit is waiting to make its big red-soled splash during New York Fashion Week in September.

(Reporting by Erin Geiger Smith)

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